Sowing starts here.

February–MarchChit healthy seed potatoes in cool, bright conditions; not warm and dark.

Germination and temperature

Chit planting stock in bright, cool, frost-free conditions. Outdoors, wait for suitable soil.

After emergence

Keep sprouts short and sturdy with enough light. Protect young foliage from frost.

Pricking out and potting on

Do not prick out: this is a tuber crop grown from planting stock.

Hardening off and planting out

Plant early and later types according to the seed potato schedule. Protect young shoots from night frost.

Planting stock is not seed. A dark, warm loft produces long, vulnerable sprouts.

March–AprilSow according to product guidance and give seedlings light immediately.

Germination and temperature

Germination: around 15–20 °C; sow about 0.5 cm deep according to product guidance.

After emergence

Keep the seed row identifiable, moist and weed-free. Give any tray-grown seedlings enough light after emergence.

Pricking out and potting on

Thin a direct sowing according to the growing aim. For raising in pots, follow the supplier’s instructions and keep the root ball intact.

Hardening off and planting out

Direct-sown plants stay in place. If the packet says to start in pots, acclimatise them gradually before planting out.

According to the producer, strawberry spinach needs around 15–20 °C for germination. Decide beforehand whether you mainly want leaves or fruit clusters. The period shown follows the named producer; check your own cultivar and growing aim.

Not the usual routeIndoor propagation is unnecessary; plant tubers in their final position.

Germination and temperature

Plant tubers in workable, unfrozen soil; warm indoor propagation is unnecessary.

After emergence

Let tubers sprout in their permanent position and keep the soil suitably moist during drought.

Pricking out and potting on

Do not prick out: this is a tuber crop grown from planting stock.

Hardening off and planting out

Plant healthy tubers directly in the final position; tubers do not need hardening off.

Jerusalem artichoke can regrow from tubers left behind. Choose a suitable permanent spot.

Not the usual routeCheck species-specific indoor sowing instructions; not every type benefits from it.

Germination and temperature

Use the germination requirements for the species and seed offered; there is no shared temperature for this group.

After emergence

Keep the seed row identifiable, moist and weed-free. Give any tray-grown seedlings enough light after emergence.

Pricking out and potting on

Thin a direct sowing according to the growing aim. For raising in pots, follow the supplier’s instructions and keep the root ball intact.

Hardening off and planting out

Direct-sown plants stay in place. If the packet says to start in pots, acclimatise them gradually before planting out.

This indicative period applies to Gomenzer. This type is not winter-hardy; treat another cultivar according to its own instructions.

June–July for many autumn typesSow thinly in modules and follow the specific cultivar period.

Germination and temperature

Allow even germination; avoid cold stress during early propagation.

After emergence

Keep emerged lettuce bright and well ventilated; prevent high greenhouse temperatures and drying out.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow in modules or prick out manageable seedlings into individual cells. Keep the root ball intact when planting out.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Plant out sturdy young plants; keep the growing point clear and protect against slugs and snails.

These types have different cultivar windows. Early cold can encourage bolting; summer sowing is the usual route for many autumn types.

March–AprilSow under cover in pots and reserve space for the substantial young plants.

Germination and temperature

Germinate in bright, sheltered conditions according to seed guidance; protect young plants from severe cold.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Prick out once the first true leaves are manageable. Hold a seedling by a leaf. Pot on when the roots fill the root ball.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Plant sturdy plants in a spacious, sheltered position; assess cold sensitivity for each type.

Early propagation does not guarantee a first-year harvest. Globe artichoke and cardoon have different harvest aims.

Not the usual routeUse the species-specific seed route; young plants or divisions do not need a warm sowing stage.

Germination and temperature

Germination requirements differ by species. Follow the packet; germination of Good King Henry can be slow and irregular.

After emergence

Give emerged plants light, prevent drying out and allow a healthy root ball to develop.

Pricking out and potting on

Prick out seedlings only when manageable. Plant bought stock or divisions with roots intact.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Choose a suitable permanent position. Plant asparagus crowns and rhubarb divisions according to their own planting guidance.

Not all perennial plants yield a harvest in their first year. Choose healthy planting stock for a predictable start; seedlings can vary.

Late April–MayStart briefly under cover in individual pots. Ensure you can plant out into warmth after a few weeks.

Germination and temperature

Sow in warmth; cold, persistently wet soil increases the risk of failure.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow in individual pots or deep modules. Do not prick out bare-rooted; move the whole root ball before the roots become restricted.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Plant out after the last frost with the whole root ball; install supports beforehand for climbing types.

Asparagus pea is a different crop from shelling pea. Choose a warm, sheltered start and plant out after the risk of frost.

February–August, depending on cultivarSow in a bright position that is not hot. A warm loft can be too hot.

Germination and temperature

Germinate in cool, bright conditions; much lettuce germinates poorly above about 25 °C.

After emergence

Keep emerged lettuce bright and well ventilated; prevent high greenhouse temperatures and drying out.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow in modules or prick out manageable seedlings into individual cells. Keep the root ball intact when planting out.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Plant out sturdy young plants; keep the growing point clear and protect against slugs and snails.

Choose a spring, summer or winter cultivar. Celtuce has a different harvest aim from heading lettuce; follow its own cultivar window.

February–MarchStart indoors in warmth and reserve enough bright space for raising plants.

Germination and temperature

Germination: at least around 21 °C. Growing on: bright conditions at about 16–18 °C.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Prick out once the first true leaves are manageable. Hold a seedling by a leaf. Pot on when the roots fill the root ball.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. A heated greenhouse can be used in April; an unheated greenhouse later in spring, and outdoors only after frost with sustained warmth.

January is an option only with a suitable heated growing-on space and enough light. For outdoor growing, generally start in March.

April for an unheated greenhouse; late April for outdoor cultivarsStart indoors in warmth and reserve enough bright space for raising plants.

Germination and temperature

Germinate in warmth, around 20 °C; young plants remain sensitive to cold.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow in individual pots or deep modules. Do not prick out bare-rooted; move the whole root ball before the roots become restricted.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Move an intact root ball to its final position only when soil and nights are warm enough. Outdoors after the last frost, usually late May–June.

A February start requires an actually heated greenhouse for growing on. Choose a greenhouse or outdoor cultivar suited to your final position.

March–April for an early startSow in bright, sheltered conditions in modules; do not keep young plants in a warm room for long.

Germination and temperature

Do not start in persistently cold soil; early cold can encourage bolting.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

You can sow in modules and plant out with the root ball. A seed cluster can produce several seedlings; thin appropriately.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Plant out small, sturdy root balls without pulling the roots apart.

Early sowing needs a suitable bolt-resistant cultivar. Choose the growing aim: baby leaves or beetroot.

June–July for many autumn typesSow thinly in modules and follow the specific cultivar period.

Germination and temperature

Allow even germination; avoid cold stress during early propagation.

After emergence

Keep emerged lettuce bright and well ventilated; prevent high greenhouse temperatures and drying out.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow in modules or prick out manageable seedlings into individual cells. Keep the root ball intact when planting out.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Plant out sturdy young plants; keep the growing point clear and protect against slugs and snails.

These types have different cultivar windows. Early cold can encourage bolting; summer sowing is the usual route for many autumn types.

Not the usual routePreferably sow directly outdoors or under cover in the final position.

Germination and temperature

Wait for workable, warmed soil; follow the cultivar’s minimum sowing temperature.

After emergence

Keep the seed row evenly moist during emergence and identifiable with a label.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow thinly and thin in the final position where needed. For cutting leaves, every seedling need not stand separately.

Hardening off and planting out

Stays where sown; hardening off and planting out are unnecessary for direct sowing.

A cool, even start helps. Heat, drought or an unsuitable cultivar window can make plants bolt quickly.

July–August for a simple autumn routeStart briefly under cover in modules; provide light and avoid heat.

Germination and temperature

Raise in cool to mild conditions; avoid severe cold, heat and drying out.

After emergence

Keep emerged lettuce bright and well ventilated; prevent high greenhouse temperatures and drying out.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow in modules or prick out manageable seedlings into individual cells. Keep the root ball intact when planting out.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Plant out sturdy young plants; keep the growing point clear and protect against slugs and snails.

These leafy crops can bolt under stress or unsuitable day length. Use early sowing only with an appropriate cultivar.

March; celery mid-March–early AprilStart indoors in good light and prevent a cold-induced growth check in young plants.

Germination and temperature

Germinate in warm, bright conditions according to species guidance. Protect young plants from prolonged cold; keep celeriac above about 10 °C.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow fine seed shallowly according to the packet; prick out manageable seedlings into individual modules.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Plant in late spring or early summer during milder weather. Keep the heart of celeriac above ground.

Celeriac has a long season. Celery and leaf celery have different harvest aims; use their own cultivar instructions.

March–May, only for a suitable harvest typeSow somewhere cool and bright and avoid long, weak growth.

Germination and temperature

Germinate under cover, then grow on in cool, bright, well-ventilated conditions; avoid a hot growing space.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow in modules or prick out manageable young plants. Let the root ball firm up without a check in growth.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Plant out sturdy young brassicas and protect against cabbage root fly and caterpillars where needed.

Early, summer, autumn and winter cultivars have their own windows. The spring period shown is a basic route; use cultivar guidance for overwintering and winter cauliflower.

April–JuneStart under cover in cool, bright conditions to suit the desired harvest time.

Germination and temperature

Germinate under cover, then grow on in cool, bright, well-ventilated conditions; avoid a hot growing space.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow in modules or prick out manageable young plants. Let the root ball firm up without a check in growth.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Plant out sturdy young brassicas and protect against cabbage root fly and caterpillars where needed.

Plan for young leaves or mature winter plants. Portuguese cabbage is not automatically as winter-hardy as kale.

March–AprilSow according to product guidance and give seedlings light immediately.

Germination and temperature

Germination: around 18–24 °C according to the producer. Needs light to germinate: do not cover with soil.

After emergence

Keep the seed row identifiable, moist and weed-free. Give any tray-grown seedlings enough light after emergence.

Pricking out and potting on

Thin a direct sowing according to the growing aim. For raising in pots, follow the supplier’s instructions and keep the root ball intact.

Hardening off and planting out

Direct-sown plants stay in place. If the packet says to start in pots, acclimatise them gradually before planting out.

Tree spinach is an annual leafy vegetable. Give the tall plants enough space later. The period shown follows the named producer; check your own cultivar and growing aim.

Late April–MayStart briefly under cover in individual pots. Ensure you can plant out into warmth after a few weeks.

Germination and temperature

Sow in warmth; cold, persistently wet soil increases the risk of failure.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow in individual pots or deep modules. Do not prick out bare-rooted; move the whole root ball before the roots become restricted.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Plant out after the last frost with the whole root ball; install supports beforehand for climbing types.

Do not start outdoor plants months too early. Beans grow quickly and do not tolerate frost.

February–March for seed-grown onionsSow lightly in modules or a seed tray and grow on steadily.

Germination and temperature

Germinate under cover, then grow on in good light without excessive warmth.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow in modules or a seed tray. Move young plants with their root ball according to cultivar guidance; a small group of spring onions can stay together.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Plant out sturdy young onions at suitable final spacing. Seed-grown onions are plants raised from seed; onion sets are planted directly.

Onion sets and seed-grown onions are different starting routes. Bunching and spring onions are generally harvested young.

Not the usual routeUse the species-specific seed route; young plants or divisions do not need a warm sowing stage.

Germination and temperature

Germination requirements differ by species. Follow the packet; germination of Good King Henry can be slow and irregular.

After emergence

Give emerged plants light, prevent drying out and allow a healthy root ball to develop.

Pricking out and potting on

Prick out seedlings only when manageable. Plant bought stock or divisions with roots intact.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Choose a suitable permanent position. Plant asparagus crowns and rhubarb divisions according to their own planting guidance.

Not all perennial plants yield a harvest in their first year. Choose healthy planting stock for a predictable start; seedlings can vary.

March–May, only for a suitable harvest typeSow somewhere cool and bright and avoid long, weak growth.

Germination and temperature

Germinate under cover, then grow on in cool, bright, well-ventilated conditions; avoid a hot growing space.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow in modules or prick out manageable young plants. Let the root ball firm up without a check in growth.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Plant out sturdy young brassicas and protect against cabbage root fly and caterpillars where needed.

Early, summer, autumn and winter cultivars have their own windows. The spring period shown is a basic route; use cultivar guidance for overwintering and winter cauliflower.

July–August for a simple autumn routeStart briefly under cover in modules; provide light and avoid heat.

Germination and temperature

Raise in cool to mild conditions; avoid severe cold, heat and drying out.

After emergence

Keep emerged lettuce bright and well ventilated; prevent high greenhouse temperatures and drying out.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow in modules or prick out manageable seedlings into individual cells. Keep the root ball intact when planting out.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Plant out sturdy young plants; keep the growing point clear and protect against slugs and snails.

These leafy crops can bolt under stress or unsuitable day length. Use early sowing only with an appropriate cultivar.

April–early MayStart indoors in warmth and reserve enough bright space for raising plants.

Germination and temperature

Germinate in warmth, around 18–21 °C; avoid cold, waterlogged seed compost.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow in individual pots or deep modules. Do not prick out bare-rooted; move the whole root ball before the roots become restricted.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. After the last frost and hardening off, usually late May–June, with the root ball intact.

These plants grow quickly. Do not start in February if you cannot plant out until late May.

Not the usual routeDirect sowing prevents root damage.

Germination and temperature

Wait for workable, warmed soil; follow the cultivar’s minimum sowing temperature.

After emergence

Keep the seed row evenly moist during emergence and identifiable with a label.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow thinly and thin in the final position where needed. For cutting leaves, every seedling need not stand separately.

Hardening off and planting out

Stays where sown; hardening off and planting out are unnecessary for direct sowing.

Many winter radishes suit summer sowing. Use a cultivar suited to the chosen day length and sowing period.

February–MarchStart under cover in cool, bright conditions; move to a suitable sheltered position after emergence.

Germination and temperature

A cool, bright growing space suits better than a hot loft. Do not sow in waterlogged, cold soil.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Use deep modules, pots or a seed gutter. Plant out with the whole root ball; do not pull the roots apart.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Plant out sturdy young plants once the soil is workable. Install pea sticks or a frame in good time.

Choose a suitable early or later cultivar. Avoid prolonged warm indoor propagation.

Not the usual routeSow directly in the final position; the taproot tolerates transplanting poorly.

Germination and temperature

Wait for workable, warmed soil; follow the cultivar’s minimum sowing temperature.

After emergence

Keep the seed row evenly moist during emergence and identifiable with a label.

Pricking out and potting on

Do not prick out. Thin in place; transplanting can damage the taproot.

Hardening off and planting out

Stays where sown; hardening off and planting out are unnecessary for direct sowing.

This taproot crop stays where sown. Parsnip needs fresh seed and can germinate slowly; follow separate seed guidance for scorzonera, salsify and root parsley.

Spring, warm and bright; follow species guidanceSow in a tray for an organised start.

Germination and temperature

Germinate in warmth according to the packet; avoid a cold, wet start.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow shallowly. Use small tray groups or thin a direct sowing according to product guidance.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Plant out tray groups when soil is warm and weather frost-free.

Summer purslane, ice plant and winter purslane are different plants. Do not apply a winter sowing schedule to a summer crop.

March–AprilSow under cover in pots and reserve space for the substantial young plants.

Germination and temperature

Germinate in bright, sheltered conditions according to seed guidance; protect young plants from severe cold.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Prick out once the first true leaves are manageable. Hold a seedling by a leaf. Pot on when the roots fill the root ball.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Plant sturdy plants in a spacious, sheltered position; assess cold sensitivity for each type.

Early propagation does not guarantee a first-year harvest. Globe artichoke and cardoon have different harvest aims.

Not the usual routeWarm indoor propagation is unnecessary for garlic cloves.

Germination and temperature

No warm germination tray needed; choose suitable planting stock and well-drained soil.

After emergence

Let cloves root in well-drained soil. Keep pots outside or under cover; avoid persistently wet soil.

Pricking out and potting on

Do not prick out: you plant cloves. Pots are transplanted later with the whole root ball.

Hardening off and planting out

Plant cloves directly. In very wet soil, you can first root them in pots according to product guidance.

Autumn and spring garlic are not interchangeable. Elephant garlic is a relative of leek; use its own planting-stock guidance.

MarchStart indoors in good light and prevent a cold-induced growth check in young plants.

Germination and temperature

Germinate in warm, bright conditions according to species guidance. Protect young plants from prolonged cold; keep celeriac above about 10 °C.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow fine seed shallowly according to the packet; prick out manageable seedlings into individual modules.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Plant in late spring or early summer during milder weather. Keep the heart of celeriac above ground.

Celeriac has a long season. Celery and leaf celery have different harvest aims; use their own cultivar instructions.

June–July for a manageable autumn cropSow in individual modules and keep propagation brief.

Germination and temperature

Do not start in persistently cold soil; early cold can encourage bolting.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow directly or in individual modules. Do not prick out unnecessarily; root damage can disrupt growth and tuber formation.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Plant out small, sturdy root balls without pulling the roots apart.

Long days, drought and growth checks can encourage bolting. Choose a suitable cultivar; early cultivars follow their own schedule.

April for an unheated greenhouse; late April for outdoor cultivarsStart indoors in warmth and reserve enough bright space for raising plants.

Germination and temperature

Germinate in warmth, around 20 °C; young plants remain sensitive to cold.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow in individual pots or deep modules. Do not prick out bare-rooted; move the whole root ball before the roots become restricted.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Move an intact root ball to its final position only when soil and nights are warm enough. Outdoors after the last frost, usually late May–June.

A February start requires an actually heated greenhouse for growing on. Choose a greenhouse or outdoor cultivar suited to your final position.

Mid-April–mid-MayStart indoors in warmth and reserve enough bright space for raising plants.

Germination and temperature

Germinate in warmth; for melon, at least about 18 °C. Follow the packet for watermelon and cucumber melon.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow in individual pots or deep modules. Do not prick out bare-rooted; move the whole root ball before the roots become restricted.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. In a warm greenhouse or very sheltered warm position, with the root ball intact. Plant out only once cold nights are over.

Dutch outdoor growing is uncertain in a cool summer. Choose a suitable early type; do not confuse cucumber melon with an ordinary cucumber.

Not the usual routePreferably sow directly outdoors or under cover in the final position.

Germination and temperature

Wait for workable, warmed soil; follow the cultivar’s minimum sowing temperature.

After emergence

Keep the seed row evenly moist during emergence and identifiable with a label.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow thinly and thin in the final position where needed. For cutting leaves, every seedling need not stand separately.

Hardening off and planting out

Stays where sown; hardening off and planting out are unnecessary for direct sowing.

Swede is a different crop from early turnip. Give the roots sufficient final spacing.

March–May, only for a suitable harvest typeSow somewhere cool and bright and avoid long, weak growth.

Germination and temperature

Germinate under cover, then grow on in cool, bright, well-ventilated conditions; avoid a hot growing space.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow in modules or prick out manageable young plants. Let the root ball firm up without a check in growth.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Plant out sturdy young brassicas and protect against cabbage root fly and caterpillars where needed.

Harvest young and prevent drought checks; repeat small sowings within the cultivar’s window.

Late April–MayStart briefly under cover in individual pots. Ensure you can plant out into warmth after a few weeks.

Germination and temperature

Sow in warmth; cold, persistently wet soil increases the risk of failure.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow in individual pots or deep modules. Do not prick out bare-rooted; move the whole root ball before the roots become restricted.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Plant out after the last frost with the whole root ball; install supports beforehand for climbing types.

Choose a cultivar suited to the short Dutch season. Lima beans need plenty of warmth; a cool summer can limit ripening.

Not the usual routeDirect spring sowing is the usual route.

Germination and temperature

Use workable spring soil with good drainage; follow seed guidance.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow directly and keep the young row weed-free. Planting out is unnecessary for this route.

Hardening off and planting out

Stays in the final sowing position.

This is a trial crop in the Dutch climate. Maturity days from abroad give no certain harvest date.

April–May, with sufficiently warm propagationStart indoors in warmth and reserve enough bright space for raising plants.

Germination and temperature

Garden Organic gives around 26–30 °C for germination.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow in individual pots or deep modules. Do not prick out bare-rooted; move the whole root ball before the roots become restricted.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. After the cold spring, plant with the root ball intact in a warm greenhouse and prepare sturdy climbing support.

Luffa needs a long warm season; sponge maturation is uncertain in a cool Dutch outdoor bed.

Not the usual routeCheck species-specific indoor sowing instructions; not every type benefits from it.

Germination and temperature

Use the germination requirements for the species and seed offered; there is no shared temperature for this group.

After emergence

Keep the seed row identifiable, moist and weed-free. Give any tray-grown seedlings enough light after emergence.

Pricking out and potting on

Thin a direct sowing according to the growing aim. For raising in pots, follow the supplier’s instructions and keep the root ball intact.

Hardening off and planting out

Direct-sown plants stay in place. If the packet says to start in pots, acclimatise them gradually before planting out.

Orache can bolt quickly in heat and drought; plan small sowings for young leaves. The period shown follows the named producer; check your own cultivar and growing aim.

Mid-April–mid-MayStart indoors in warmth and reserve enough bright space for raising plants.

Germination and temperature

Germinate in warmth; for melon, at least about 18 °C. Follow the packet for watermelon and cucumber melon.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow in individual pots or deep modules. Do not prick out bare-rooted; move the whole root ball before the roots become restricted.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. In a warm greenhouse or very sheltered warm position, with the root ball intact. Plant out only once cold nights are over.

Dutch outdoor growing is uncertain in a cool summer. Choose a suitable early type; do not confuse cucumber melon with an ordinary cucumber.

July–August for a simple autumn routeStart briefly under cover in modules; provide light and avoid heat.

Germination and temperature

Raise in cool to mild conditions; avoid severe cold, heat and drying out.

After emergence

Keep emerged lettuce bright and well ventilated; prevent high greenhouse temperatures and drying out.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow in modules or prick out manageable seedlings into individual cells. Keep the root ball intact when planting out.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Plant out sturdy young plants; keep the growing point clear and protect against slugs and snails.

These leafy crops can bolt under stress or unsuitable day length. Use early sowing only with an appropriate cultivar.

Not the usual routeSow green manure outdoors. Edible sprouts can be grown indoors according to separate product instructions, using seed intended for that purpose.

Germination and temperature

Use the germination requirements for the species and seed offered; there is no shared temperature for this group.

After emergence

Keep the seed row identifiable, moist and weed-free. Give any tray-grown seedlings enough light after emergence.

Pricking out and potting on

Thin a direct sowing according to the growing aim. For raising in pots, follow the supplier’s instructions and keep the root ball intact.

Hardening off and planting out

Direct-sown plants stay in place. If the packet says to start in pots, acclimatise them gradually before planting out.

Green manure and sprouts are separate uses. For edible sprouts, use only seed offered for that purpose. The period shown follows the named producer; check your own cultivar and growing aim.

From AprilStart indoors in warmth and reserve enough bright space for raising plants.

Germination and temperature

Start in warmth according to the packet; germination can be slow.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow in individual pots or deep modules. Do not prick out bare-rooted; move the whole root ball before the roots become restricted.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. After the cold spring, in warm soil with enough room for spreading growth.

This is a frost-sensitive summer leafy vegetable, not winter-hardy spinach.

March–AprilStart indoors in warmth and reserve enough bright space for raising plants.

Germination and temperature

Germinate in warmth, preferably above 20 °C according to cultivar instructions.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow in individual pots or deep modules. Do not prick out bare-rooted; move the whole root ball before the roots become restricted.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Late May–June, only with sustained warm conditions. A greenhouse offers more chance in the Netherlands than a cool outdoor bed.

Cold nights can check growth. Sow individually and move the whole root ball.

Not the usual routeWarm indoor propagation is unnecessary for garlic cloves.

Germination and temperature

No warm germination tray needed; choose suitable planting stock and well-drained soil.

After emergence

Let cloves root in well-drained soil. Keep pots outside or under cover; avoid persistently wet soil.

Pricking out and potting on

Do not prick out: you plant cloves. Pots are transplanted later with the whole root ball.

Hardening off and planting out

Plant cloves directly. In very wet soil, you can first root them in pots according to product guidance.

Autumn and spring garlic are not interchangeable. Elephant garlic is a relative of leek; use its own planting-stock guidance.

July–August for a simple autumn routeStart briefly under cover in modules; provide light and avoid heat.

Germination and temperature

Raise in cool to mild conditions; avoid severe cold, heat and drying out.

After emergence

Keep emerged lettuce bright and well ventilated; prevent high greenhouse temperatures and drying out.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow in modules or prick out manageable seedlings into individual cells. Keep the root ball intact when planting out.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Plant out sturdy young plants; keep the growing point clear and protect against slugs and snails.

These leafy crops can bolt under stress or unsuitable day length. Use early sowing only with an appropriate cultivar.

April–JuneStart under cover in cool, bright conditions to suit the desired harvest time.

Germination and temperature

Germinate under cover, then grow on in cool, bright, well-ventilated conditions; avoid a hot growing space.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow in modules or prick out manageable young plants. Let the root ball firm up without a check in growth.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Plant out sturdy young brassicas and protect against cabbage root fly and caterpillars where needed.

Plan for young leaves or mature winter plants. Portuguese cabbage is not automatically as winter-hardy as kale.

Mid-February–early March for greenhouse growingStart indoors in warmth and reserve enough bright space for raising plants.

Germination and temperature

Germination: around 18–21 °C. After emergence: good light at about 16–18 °C.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Prick out once the first true leaves are manageable. Hold a seedling by a leaf. Pot on when the roots fill the root ball.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. An unheated greenhouse generally from mid-May; outdoors often late May–June, with consistently warm nights (at least around 12 °C). A heated greenhouse can be earlier if temperature is actually maintained.

Sweet pepper needs a long season. Very early sowing without enough light gives no head start. For outdoor growing, a suitable early cultivar may be sown later; follow seed guidance.

Not the usual routeSow directly in the final position; the taproot tolerates transplanting poorly.

Germination and temperature

Wait for workable, warmed soil; follow the cultivar’s minimum sowing temperature.

After emergence

Keep the seed row evenly moist during emergence and identifiable with a label.

Pricking out and potting on

Do not prick out. Thin in place; transplanting can damage the taproot.

Hardening off and planting out

Stays where sown; hardening off and planting out are unnecessary for direct sowing.

This taproot crop stays where sown. Parsnip needs fresh seed and can germinate slowly; follow separate seed guidance for scorzonera, salsify and root parsley.

April–early MayStart indoors in warmth and reserve enough bright space for raising plants.

Germination and temperature

Germinate in warmth, around 18–21 °C; avoid cold, waterlogged seed compost.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow in individual pots or deep modules. Do not prick out bare-rooted; move the whole root ball before the roots become restricted.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. After the last frost and hardening off, usually late May–June, with the root ball intact.

These plants grow quickly. Do not start in February if you cannot plant out until late May.

February–March; slow types sometimes earlierStart indoors in warmth and reserve enough bright space for raising plants.

Germination and temperature

Germinate in warmth: around 21 °C; follow the temperature for your species and cultivar.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Prick out once the first true leaves are manageable. Hold a seedling by a leaf. Pot on when the roots fill the root ball.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Keep young plants warm until the final position offers sufficiently warm nights. Outdoors only after the last frost and hardening off.

A slow-ripening chilli needs a different start from a quick Capsicum annuum. A January start suits only sufficient warmth, light and propagation space.

Mid-February–early March for greenhouse growingStart indoors in warmth and reserve enough bright space for raising plants.

Germination and temperature

Germination: around 18–21 °C. After emergence: good light at about 16–18 °C.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Prick out once the first true leaves are manageable. Hold a seedling by a leaf. Pot on when the roots fill the root ball.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. An unheated greenhouse generally from mid-May; outdoors often late May–June, with consistently warm nights (at least around 12 °C). A heated greenhouse can be earlier if temperature is actually maintained.

Sweet pepper needs a long season. Very early sowing without enough light gives no head start. For outdoor growing, a suitable early cultivar may be sown later; follow seed guidance.

February–MarchStart under cover in cool, bright conditions; move to a suitable sheltered position after emergence.

Germination and temperature

A cool, bright growing space suits better than a hot loft. Do not sow in waterlogged, cold soil.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Use deep modules, pots or a seed gutter. Plant out with the whole root ball; do not pull the roots apart.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Plant out sturdy young plants once the soil is workable. Install pea sticks or a frame in good time.

Choose a suitable early or later cultivar. Avoid prolonged warm indoor propagation.

Mid–late AprilStart indoors in warmth and reserve enough bright space for raising plants.

Germination and temperature

Germinate in warmth: at least about 18 °C.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow in individual pots or deep modules. Do not prick out bare-rooted; move the whole root ball before the roots become restricted.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. After the last frost in warm soil. Keep the root ball intact and give the cultivar enough space.

Plan around six weeks of bright propagation space. Winter types then still need enough time to grow and mature.

Mid–late AprilStart indoors in warmth and reserve enough bright space for raising plants.

Germination and temperature

Germinate in warmth: at least about 18 °C.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow in individual pots or deep modules. Do not prick out bare-rooted; move the whole root ball before the roots become restricted.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. After the last frost in warm soil. Keep the root ball intact and give the cultivar enough space.

Plan around six weeks of bright propagation space. Winter types then still need enough time to grow and mature.

April–early MayStart indoors in warmth and reserve enough bright space for raising plants.

Germination and temperature

Germinate in warmth, around 18–21 °C; avoid cold, waterlogged seed compost.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow in individual pots or deep modules. Do not prick out bare-rooted; move the whole root ball before the roots become restricted.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. After the last frost and hardening off, usually late May–June, with the root ball intact.

These plants grow quickly. Do not start in February if you cannot plant out until late May.

April–MayStart indoors in warmth and reserve enough bright space for raising plants.

Germination and temperature

Warmth helps germination; use cultivar instructions for temperature.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow in individual pots or deep modules. Do not prick out bare-rooted; move the whole root ball before the roots become restricted.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. After hardening off and the last frost, usually late May–June. Plant root balls in a block for pollination.

Do not leave young sweetcorn in small pots too long. Popcorn needs enough season for cobs to ripen and dry.

April–JuneStart under cover in cool, bright conditions to suit the desired harvest time.

Germination and temperature

Germinate under cover, then grow on in cool, bright, well-ventilated conditions; avoid a hot growing space.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow in modules or prick out manageable young plants. Let the root ball firm up without a check in growth.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Plant out sturdy young brassicas and protect against cabbage root fly and caterpillars where needed.

Plan for young leaves or mature winter plants. Portuguese cabbage is not automatically as winter-hardy as kale.

February–April, depending on harvest typeStart in good light without excessive warmth; follow cultivar guidance for early leek.

Germination and temperature

Germinate under cover, then grow on in good light without excessive warmth.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow in a deep container, modules or a seedbed. Let plants grow on until sturdy enough to plant out.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Plant out sturdy young leeks, generally in late spring or summer; harvest type and cultivar determine planning.

Summer, autumn and winter leeks follow different schedules. Do not sow all leeks in the same month.

Late April–MayStart briefly under cover in individual pots. Ensure you can plant out into warmth after a few weeks.

Germination and temperature

Sow in warmth; cold, persistently wet soil increases the risk of failure.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow in individual pots or deep modules. Do not prick out bare-rooted; move the whole root ball before the roots become restricted.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Plant out after the last frost with the whole root ball; install supports beforehand for climbing types.

Prepare climbing support before planting out. Runner beans are also frost-sensitive as young plants.

June–July for many autumn typesSow thinly in modules and follow the specific cultivar period.

Germination and temperature

Allow even germination; avoid cold stress during early propagation.

After emergence

Keep emerged lettuce bright and well ventilated; prevent high greenhouse temperatures and drying out.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow in modules or prick out manageable seedlings into individual cells. Keep the root ball intact when planting out.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Plant out sturdy young plants; keep the growing point clear and protect against slugs and snails.

These types have different cultivar windows. Early cold can encourage bolting; summer sowing is the usual route for many autumn types.

Not the usual routeCheck species-specific indoor sowing instructions; not every type benefits from it.

Germination and temperature

Germination: around 15–20 °C according to the producer. Direct April sowing is the basic route here.

After emergence

Keep the seed row identifiable, moist and weed-free. Give any tray-grown seedlings enough light after emergence.

Pricking out and potting on

Thin a direct sowing according to the growing aim. For raising in pots, follow the supplier’s instructions and keep the root ball intact.

Hardening off and planting out

Direct-sown plants stay in place. If the packet says to start in pots, acclimatise them gradually before planting out.

Choose a seed type suited to the season and mark the young row clearly; quinoa can resemble weeds. The period shown follows the named producer; check your own cultivar and growing aim.

Not the usual routePreferably sow directly outdoors or under cover in the final position.

Germination and temperature

Wait for workable, warmed soil; follow the cultivar’s minimum sowing temperature.

After emergence

Keep the seed row evenly moist during emergence and identifiable with a label.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow thinly and thin in the final position where needed. For cutting leaves, every seedling need not stand separately.

Hardening off and planting out

Stays where sown; hardening off and planting out are unnecessary for direct sowing.

A cool, even start helps. Heat, drought or an unsuitable cultivar window can make plants bolt quickly.

Not the usual routePreferably sow directly outdoors or under cover in the final position.

Germination and temperature

Wait for workable, warmed soil; follow the cultivar’s minimum sowing temperature.

After emergence

Keep the seed row evenly moist during emergence and identifiable with a label.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow thinly and thin in the final position where needed. For cutting leaves, every seedling need not stand separately.

Hardening off and planting out

Stays where sown; hardening off and planting out are unnecessary for direct sowing.

A cool, even start helps. Heat, drought or an unsuitable cultivar window can make plants bolt quickly.

Not the usual routeUse the species-specific seed route; young plants or divisions do not need a warm sowing stage.

Germination and temperature

Germination requirements differ by species. Follow the packet; germination of Good King Henry can be slow and irregular.

After emergence

Give emerged plants light, prevent drying out and allow a healthy root ball to develop.

Pricking out and potting on

Prick out seedlings only when manageable. Plant bought stock or divisions with roots intact.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Choose a suitable permanent position. Plant asparagus crowns and rhubarb divisions according to their own planting guidance.

Not all perennial plants yield a harvest in their first year. Choose healthy planting stock for a predictable start; seedlings can vary.

June–July for many autumn typesSow thinly in modules and follow the specific cultivar period.

Germination and temperature

Allow even germination; avoid cold stress during early propagation.

After emergence

Keep emerged lettuce bright and well ventilated; prevent high greenhouse temperatures and drying out.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow in modules or prick out manageable seedlings into individual cells. Keep the root ball intact when planting out.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Plant out sturdy young plants; keep the growing point clear and protect against slugs and snails.

These types have different cultivar windows. Early cold can encourage bolting; summer sowing is the usual route for many autumn types.

Not the usual routePreferably sow directly outdoors or under cover in the final position.

Germination and temperature

Wait for workable, warmed soil; follow the cultivar’s minimum sowing temperature.

After emergence

Keep the seed row evenly moist during emergence and identifiable with a label.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow thinly and thin in the final position where needed. For cutting leaves, every seedling need not stand separately.

Hardening off and planting out

Stays where sown; hardening off and planting out are unnecessary for direct sowing.

A cool, even start helps. Heat, drought or an unsuitable cultivar window can make plants bolt quickly.

Not the usual routeDirect sowing prevents root damage.

Germination and temperature

Wait for workable, warmed soil; follow the cultivar’s minimum sowing temperature.

After emergence

Keep the seed row evenly moist during emergence and identifiable with a label.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow thinly and thin in the final position where needed. For cutting leaves, every seedling need not stand separately.

Hardening off and planting out

Stays where sown; hardening off and planting out are unnecessary for direct sowing.

Many winter radishes suit summer sowing. Use a cultivar suited to the chosen day length and sowing period.

March–May, only for a suitable harvest typeSow somewhere cool and bright and avoid long, weak growth.

Germination and temperature

Germinate under cover, then grow on in cool, bright, well-ventilated conditions; avoid a hot growing space.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow in modules or prick out manageable young plants. Let the root ball firm up without a check in growth.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Plant out sturdy young brassicas and protect against cabbage root fly and caterpillars where needed.

Early, summer, autumn and winter cultivars have their own windows. The spring period shown is a basic route; use cultivar guidance for overwintering and winter cauliflower.

March–May, only for a suitable harvest typeSow somewhere cool and bright and avoid long, weak growth.

Germination and temperature

Germinate under cover, then grow on in cool, bright, well-ventilated conditions; avoid a hot growing space.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow in modules or prick out manageable young plants. Let the root ball firm up without a check in growth.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Plant out sturdy young brassicas and protect against cabbage root fly and caterpillars where needed.

Early, summer, autumn and winter cultivars have their own windows. The spring period shown is a basic route; use cultivar guidance for overwintering and winter cauliflower.

Not the usual routePreferably sow directly outdoors or under cover in the final position.

Germination and temperature

Wait for workable, warmed soil; follow the cultivar’s minimum sowing temperature.

After emergence

Keep the seed row evenly moist during emergence and identifiable with a label.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow thinly and thin in the final position where needed. For cutting leaves, every seedling need not stand separately.

Hardening off and planting out

Stays where sown; hardening off and planting out are unnecessary for direct sowing.

A cool, even start helps. Heat, drought or an unsuitable cultivar window can make plants bolt quickly.

March–May, only for a suitable harvest typeSow somewhere cool and bright and avoid long, weak growth.

Germination and temperature

Germinate under cover, then grow on in cool, bright, well-ventilated conditions; avoid a hot growing space.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow in modules or prick out manageable young plants. Let the root ball firm up without a check in growth.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Plant out sturdy young brassicas and protect against cabbage root fly and caterpillars where needed.

Early, summer, autumn and winter cultivars have their own windows. The spring period shown is a basic route; use cultivar guidance for overwintering and winter cauliflower.

Not the usual routeSow directly in the final position; the taproot tolerates transplanting poorly.

Germination and temperature

Wait for workable, warmed soil; follow the cultivar’s minimum sowing temperature.

After emergence

Keep the seed row evenly moist during emergence and identifiable with a label.

Pricking out and potting on

Do not prick out. Thin in place; transplanting can damage the taproot.

Hardening off and planting out

Stays where sown; hardening off and planting out are unnecessary for direct sowing.

This taproot crop stays where sown. Parsnip needs fresh seed and can germinate slowly; follow separate seed guidance for scorzonera, salsify and root parsley.

Not the usual routeWarm indoor propagation is unnecessary for planting stock. Seed shallots follow their packet.

Germination and temperature

Germinate under cover, then grow on in good light without excessive warmth.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Shallot sets are bulbs: do not prick out. Seed shallots can be raised in modules according to seed guidance.

Hardening off and planting out

Plant healthy bulbs directly in workable, well-drained soil. Harden off module-grown seed shallots first and transplant with the root ball.

Plant bulbs for shallot sets; seed shallots follow specific seed guidance.

February–August, depending on cultivarSow in a bright position that is not hot. A warm loft can be too hot.

Germination and temperature

Germinate in cool, bright conditions; much lettuce germinates poorly above about 25 °C.

After emergence

Keep emerged lettuce bright and well ventilated; prevent high greenhouse temperatures and drying out.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow in modules or prick out manageable seedlings into individual cells. Keep the root ball intact when planting out.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Plant out sturdy young plants; keep the growing point clear and protect against slugs and snails.

Choose a spring, summer or winter cultivar. Celtuce has a different harvest aim from heading lettuce; follow its own cultivar window.

Not the usual routeCheck species-specific indoor sowing instructions; not every type benefits from it.

Germination and temperature

Use the germination requirements for the species and seed offered; there is no shared temperature for this group.

After emergence

Keep the seed row identifiable, moist and weed-free. Give any tray-grown seedlings enough light after emergence.

Pricking out and potting on

Thin a direct sowing according to the growing aim. For raising in pots, follow the supplier’s instructions and keep the root ball intact.

Hardening off and planting out

Direct-sown plants stay in place. If the packet says to start in pots, acclimatise them gradually before planting out.

Rat-tail radish is a pod vegetable in the kitchen: you pick young seed pods, not the root. The sowing time shown follows Serpent from Kokopelli; check your own selection.

March–April for an early startSow in bright, sheltered conditions in modules; do not keep young plants in a warm room for long.

Germination and temperature

Do not start in persistently cold soil; early cold can encourage bolting.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

You can sow in modules and plant out with the root ball. A seed cluster can produce several seedlings; thin appropriately.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Plant out small, sturdy root balls without pulling the roots apart.

Cold during early growth can trigger bolting; do not start unnecessarily early.

Late April–MayStart briefly under cover in individual pots. Ensure you can plant out into warmth after a few weeks.

Germination and temperature

Sow in warmth; cold, persistently wet soil increases the risk of failure.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow in individual pots or deep modules. Do not prick out bare-rooted; move the whole root ball before the roots become restricted.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Plant out after the last frost with the whole root ball; install supports beforehand for climbing types.

Do not start outdoor plants months too early. Beans grow quickly and do not tolerate frost.

March; celery mid-March–early AprilStart indoors in good light and prevent a cold-induced growth check in young plants.

Germination and temperature

Germinate in warm, bright conditions according to species guidance. Protect young plants from prolonged cold; keep celeriac above about 10 °C.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow fine seed shallowly according to the packet; prick out manageable seedlings into individual modules.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Plant in late spring or early summer during milder weather. Keep the heart of celeriac above ground.

Celeriac has a long season. Celery and leaf celery have different harvest aims; use their own cultivar instructions.

Late April–MayStart briefly under cover in individual pots. Ensure you can plant out into warmth after a few weeks.

Germination and temperature

Sow in warmth; cold, persistently wet soil increases the risk of failure.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow in individual pots or deep modules. Do not prick out bare-rooted; move the whole root ball before the roots become restricted.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Plant out after the last frost with the whole root ball; install supports beforehand for climbing types.

Choose a cultivar suited to the short Dutch season. Lima beans need plenty of warmth; a cool summer can limit ripening.

Late April–MayStart briefly under cover in individual pots. Ensure you can plant out into warmth after a few weeks.

Germination and temperature

Sow in warmth; cold, persistently wet soil increases the risk of failure.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow in individual pots or deep modules. Do not prick out bare-rooted; move the whole root ball before the roots become restricted.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Plant out after the last frost with the whole root ball; install supports beforehand for climbing types.

Do not start outdoor plants months too early. Beans grow quickly and do not tolerate frost.

Not the usual routeStarting indoors in warmth is usually unnecessary; sow in the final position.

Germination and temperature

Cool propagation; warm, dry conditions increase the risk of bolting.

After emergence

Keep emerged lettuce bright and well ventilated; prevent high greenhouse temperatures and drying out.

Pricking out and potting on

Direct sowing is simple. Thin to the cultivar’s spacing.

Hardening off and planting out

Direct-sown spinach stays in place.

Choose a cultivar for the correct day length; a spring cultivar is not automatically suitable for summer.

Not the usual routeUse the species-specific seed route; young plants or divisions do not need a warm sowing stage.

Germination and temperature

Germination requirements differ by species. Follow the packet; germination of Good King Henry can be slow and irregular.

After emergence

Give emerged plants light, prevent drying out and allow a healthy root ball to develop.

Pricking out and potting on

Prick out seedlings only when manageable. Plant bought stock or divisions with roots intact.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Choose a suitable permanent position. Plant asparagus crowns and rhubarb divisions according to their own planting guidance.

Not all perennial plants yield a harvest in their first year. Choose healthy planting stock for a predictable start; seedlings can vary.

March–May, only for a suitable harvest typeSow somewhere cool and bright and avoid long, weak growth.

Germination and temperature

Germinate under cover, then grow on in cool, bright, well-ventilated conditions; avoid a hot growing space.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow in modules or prick out manageable young plants. Let the root ball firm up without a check in growth.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Plant out sturdy young brassicas and protect against cabbage root fly and caterpillars where needed.

Early, summer, autumn and winter cultivars have their own windows. The spring period shown is a basic route; use cultivar guidance for overwintering and winter cauliflower.

March–AprilStart under cover in cool, bright conditions.

Germination and temperature

Germinate under cover, then grow on in cool, bright, well-ventilated conditions; avoid a hot growing space.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow in modules or prick out manageable young plants. Let the root ball firm up without a check in growth.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Plant out sturdy young brassicas and protect against cabbage root fly and caterpillars where needed.

Brussels sprouts need a long season. Choose the cultivar for an early, autumn or winter harvest and start according to that schedule.

February–March for seed-grown onionsSow lightly in modules or a seed tray and grow on steadily.

Germination and temperature

Germinate under cover, then grow on in good light without excessive warmth.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow in modules or a seed tray. Move young plants with their root ball according to cultivar guidance; a small group of spring onions can stay together.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Plant out sturdy young onions at suitable final spacing. Seed-grown onions are plants raised from seed; onion sets are planted directly.

Onion sets and seed-grown onions are different starting routes. Bunching and spring onions are generally harvested young.

Late April–MayStart briefly under cover in individual pots. Ensure you can plant out into warmth after a few weeks.

Germination and temperature

Sow in warmth; cold, persistently wet soil increases the risk of failure.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow in individual pots or deep modules. Do not prick out bare-rooted; move the whole root ball before the roots become restricted.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Plant out after the last frost with the whole root ball; install supports beforehand for climbing types.

Do not start outdoor plants months too early. Beans grow quickly and do not tolerate frost.

Late April–MayStart briefly under cover in individual pots. Ensure you can plant out into warmth after a few weeks.

Germination and temperature

Sow in warmth; cold, persistently wet soil increases the risk of failure.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow in individual pots or deep modules. Do not prick out bare-rooted; move the whole root ball before the roots become restricted.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Plant out after the last frost with the whole root ball; install supports beforehand for climbing types.

Do not start outdoor plants months too early. Beans grow quickly and do not tolerate frost.

February–MarchStart under cover in cool, bright conditions; move to a suitable sheltered position after emergence.

Germination and temperature

A cool, bright growing space suits better than a hot loft. Do not sow in waterlogged, cold soil.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Use deep modules, pots or a seed gutter. Plant out with the whole root ball; do not pull the roots apart.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Plant out sturdy young plants once the soil is workable. Install pea sticks or a frame in good time.

Choose a suitable early or later cultivar. Avoid prolonged warm indoor propagation.

April–MayStart indoors in warmth and reserve enough bright space for raising plants.

Germination and temperature

Warmth helps germination; use cultivar instructions for temperature.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow in individual pots or deep modules. Do not prick out bare-rooted; move the whole root ball before the roots become restricted.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. After hardening off and the last frost, usually late May–June. Plant root balls in a block for pollination.

Do not leave young sweetcorn in small pots too long. Popcorn needs enough season for cobs to ripen and dry.

July–August for a simple autumn routeStart briefly under cover in modules; provide light and avoid heat.

Germination and temperature

Raise in cool to mild conditions; avoid severe cold, heat and drying out.

After emergence

Keep emerged lettuce bright and well ventilated; prevent high greenhouse temperatures and drying out.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow in modules or prick out manageable seedlings into individual cells. Keep the root ball intact when planting out.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Plant out sturdy young plants; keep the growing point clear and protect against slugs and snails.

These leafy crops can bolt under stress or unsuitable day length. Use early sowing only with an appropriate cultivar.

Late February–mid-March for a greenhouse; late March–early April for outdoorsStart indoors in warmth and reserve enough bright space for raising plants.

Germination and temperature

Germination: about 18 °C. After emergence, plenty of light and protection from cold.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Prick out once the first true leaves are manageable. Hold a seedling by a leaf. Pot on when the roots fill the root ball.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. A heated greenhouse can be earlier; an unheated greenhouse only when frost-free and warm enough. Outdoors after the last frost, often late May or June.

Match the start to the final position. A large plant needing to stay indoors in insufficient light for weeks gets no better start.

February–MarchStart in cool conditions in deep pots and avoid long, weak growth.

Germination and temperature

A cool, bright growing space suits better than a hot loft. Do not sow in waterlogged, cold soil.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Use deep modules, pots or a seed gutter. Plant out with the whole root ball; do not pull the roots apart.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Plant out sturdy young plants once the soil is workable. Install pea sticks or a frame in good time.

Choose a suitable early or later cultivar. Avoid prolonged warm indoor propagation.

February–March for seed-grown onionsSow lightly in modules or a seed tray and grow on steadily.

Germination and temperature

Germinate under cover, then grow on in good light without excessive warmth.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow in modules or a seed tray. Move young plants with their root ball according to cultivar guidance; a small group of spring onions can stay together.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Plant out sturdy young onions at suitable final spacing. Seed-grown onions are plants raised from seed; onion sets are planted directly.

Onion sets and seed-grown onions are different starting routes. Bunching and spring onions are generally harvested young.

Not the usual routeA warm loft is unnecessary. Choose a cool, sheltered sowing or growing position.

Germination and temperature

Cool germination conditions; wait if soil is hot.

After emergence

Keep emerged lettuce bright and well ventilated; prevent high greenhouse temperatures and drying out.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow directly or raise small root balls according to product guidance. Keep young roots intact.

Hardening off and planting out

Direct-sown spinach stays in place.

Winter purslane and summer purslane have opposite warmth requirements. Do not confuse them.

Not the usual routeSow directly in the final position; the taproot tolerates transplanting poorly.

Germination and temperature

Wait for workable, warmed soil; follow the cultivar’s minimum sowing temperature.

After emergence

Keep the seed row evenly moist during emergence and identifiable with a label.

Pricking out and potting on

Do not prick out. Thin in place; transplanting can damage the taproot.

Hardening off and planting out

Stays where sown; hardening off and planting out are unnecessary for direct sowing.

Use deep soil with little compaction. A warm tray in the loft is not a suitable propagation route for this root crop.

Mid-April–mid-MayStart indoors in warmth and reserve enough bright space for raising plants.

Germination and temperature

Germinate in warmth; for melon, at least about 18 °C. Follow the packet for watermelon and cucumber melon.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow in individual pots or deep modules. Do not prick out bare-rooted; move the whole root ball before the roots become restricted.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. In a warm greenhouse or very sheltered warm position, with the root ball intact. Plant out only once cold nights are over.

Dutch outdoor growing is uncertain in a cool summer. Choose a suitable early type; do not confuse cucumber melon with an ordinary cucumber.

Not the usual routeA warm loft is unnecessary. Choose a cool, sheltered sowing or growing position.

Germination and temperature

Cool germination conditions; wait if soil is hot.

After emergence

Keep emerged lettuce bright and well ventilated; prevent high greenhouse temperatures and drying out.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow directly or raise small root balls according to product guidance. Keep young roots intact.

Hardening off and planting out

Direct-sown spinach stays in place.

Winter purslane and summer purslane have opposite warmth requirements. Do not confuse them.

Not the usual routeFor the root crop, sow in the final outdoor position.

Germination and temperature

Wait for workable, warmed soil; follow the cultivar’s minimum sowing temperature.

After emergence

Keep the seed row evenly moist during emergence and identifiable with a label.

Pricking out and potting on

Do not prick out. Thin in place; transplanting can damage the taproot.

Hardening off and planting out

Stays where sown; hardening off and planting out are unnecessary for direct sowing.

Sow directly for root production. Forcing chicory in darkness later is a separate stage; seedlings are raised in light.

March–May, only for a suitable harvest typeSow somewhere cool and bright and avoid long, weak growth.

Germination and temperature

Germinate under cover, then grow on in cool, bright, well-ventilated conditions; avoid a hot growing space.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow in modules or prick out manageable young plants. Let the root ball firm up without a check in growth.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Plant out sturdy young brassicas and protect against cabbage root fly and caterpillars where needed.

Early, summer, autumn and winter cultivars have their own windows. The spring period shown is a basic route; use cultivar guidance for overwintering and winter cauliflower.

Not the usual routeSow directly in the final position; the taproot tolerates transplanting poorly.

Germination and temperature

Wait for workable, warmed soil; follow the cultivar’s minimum sowing temperature.

After emergence

Keep the seed row evenly moist during emergence and identifiable with a label.

Pricking out and potting on

Do not prick out. Thin in place; transplanting can damage the taproot.

Hardening off and planting out

Stays where sown; hardening off and planting out are unnecessary for direct sowing.

Use deep soil with little compaction. A warm tray in the loft is not a suitable propagation route for this root crop.

Not the usual routeFor the root crop, sow in the final outdoor position.

Germination and temperature

Wait for workable, warmed soil; follow the cultivar’s minimum sowing temperature.

After emergence

Keep the seed row evenly moist during emergence and identifiable with a label.

Pricking out and potting on

Do not prick out. Thin in place; transplanting can damage the taproot.

Hardening off and planting out

Stays where sown; hardening off and planting out are unnecessary for direct sowing.

Sow directly for root production. Forcing chicory in darkness later is a separate stage; seedlings are raised in light.

Not the usual routeSow directly in the final position; the taproot tolerates transplanting poorly.

Germination and temperature

Wait for workable, warmed soil; follow the cultivar’s minimum sowing temperature.

After emergence

Keep the seed row evenly moist during emergence and identifiable with a label.

Pricking out and potting on

Do not prick out. Thin in place; transplanting can damage the taproot.

Hardening off and planting out

Stays where sown; hardening off and planting out are unnecessary for direct sowing.

This taproot crop stays where sown. Parsnip needs fresh seed and can germinate slowly; follow separate seed guidance for scorzonera, salsify and root parsley.

Spring, according to delivery and propagation guidanceGrow suitable rooted cuttings or young plants in warm, bright conditions.

Germination and temperature

A warm, bright propagation space and warm soil later are needed.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Carefully pot on rooted cuttings when the root ball needs more space. This is not the planting-stock route for ordinary potatoes.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Plant rooted cuttings only after frost with sufficient warmth; a greenhouse gives a better chance of a warm season.

This is not an ordinary potato. Use suitable cuttings; a supermarket tuber gives no certainty about cultivar or suitability.

Spring, warm and bright; follow species guidanceSow in a tray for an organised start.

Germination and temperature

Germinate in warmth according to the packet; avoid a cold, wet start.

After emergence

Give seedlings light immediately after emergence. A dark loft needs suitable grow lights; warmth alone is insufficient. Ventilate and keep the compost moist without saturating it.

Pricking out and potting on

Sow shallowly. Use small tray groups or thin a direct sowing according to product guidance.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Plant out tray groups when soil is warm and weather frost-free.

Summer purslane, ice plant and winter purslane are different plants. Do not apply a winter sowing schedule to a summer crop.

Not the usual routeUse the species-specific seed route; young plants or divisions do not need a warm sowing stage.

Germination and temperature

Germination requirements differ by species. Follow the packet; germination of Good King Henry can be slow and irregular.

After emergence

Give emerged plants light, prevent drying out and allow a healthy root ball to develop.

Pricking out and potting on

Prick out seedlings only when manageable. Plant bought stock or divisions with roots intact.

Hardening off and planting out

Gradually acclimatise indoor-raised plants to sun, wind and outdoor temperatures; shelter them again on cold nights. Choose a suitable permanent position. Plant asparagus crowns and rhubarb divisions according to their own planting guidance.

Not all perennial plants yield a harvest in their first year. Choose healthy planting stock for a predictable start; seedlings can vary.